How to tell what your wall is made of
Three checks, none of which need a tool.
- Tap it. Plasterboard drums and sounds hollow. Lath and plaster sounds dull and dead, with a slightly gritty feel under the knuckle. Solid brick or stone barely responds.
- Look at a window reveal. A deep reveal, roughly 200mm or more from glass to internal wall face, points to solid masonry or double brick. A shallow reveal points to a framed wall.
- Date the house. In Hobart this is the strongest single signal. Pre-1940 almost certainly means lath and plaster over hardwood framing. Postwar to the 1980s usually means brick veneer or double brick. Anything since the 1990s means plasterboard on a timber or steel frame.
How we assess a wall before drilling
We establish the construction, locate the framing with a detector and then confirm it by probing with a fine bit in a spot the bracket will cover. On lath and plaster the confirming probe matters more than the detector, because capacitive detectors read the lath itself and report studs that are not there.
Once the framing is confirmed we set the height from your seated eye line, agree the cable route, then drill. Nothing gets drilled on the strength of a beep.
When a wall cannot safely take your television
It is uncommon but it happens. Hollow rendered blockwork where no anchor will develop real pull-out strength. Heritage-listed fabric where drilling is not appropriate. Occasionally a badly modified wall where the framing has been cut out for a previous renovation.
When we find one of those, we stop and explain it, and you are not charged for a mount we did not fit. There is usually an alternative: an adjacent wall, a different position, or a floor-standing solution. We would rather do that than leave a screen on something that will not keep holding it.
For heritage-listed properties, Heritage Tasmania runs a free advisory line and we will suggest you use it before we start rather than after.
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Reviewed: August 2026