Soundbar with no sound over HDMI ARC
Work these eight checks in order rather than jumping around. Nearly every no-sound fault is one of the first four, and the order matters because each step rules out the ones below it.
Check these four before anything else: the HDMI cable is in the port physically labelled ARC or eARC, HDMI-CEC is on in the television’s settings, the TV audio output is set to the external system rather than its own speakers, and the audio format matches what the bar can decode. Four causes cover most no-sound faults.
The diagnostic, in order
- Is the cable in the right port? Only one HDMI port on a television carries ARC, and it is printed on the socket. Any other port will not return audio no matter what you change in software. This is the single most common cause.
- Is HDMI-CEC enabled? ARC depends on it. Every manufacturer renames it, which is why people switch it off without realising. See the table below.
- Is the TV audio output set correctly? Look for “Sound output” or “Audio output” and choose the receiver, HDMI ARC or external speaker option rather than TV speakers.
- Is the audio format one the bar can decode? If the TV is set to Bitstream or Auto and the bar is stereo-only, you get silence rather than a downmix. Set the television to PCM and see if the sound returns. If it does, the fault is format negotiation, not wiring.
- Is the cable good enough? For eARC use a High Speed with Ethernet cable at minimum. Long, thin or old cables cause intermittent dropouts that look like a faulty soundbar.
- Is the firmware current on both devices? ARC and eARC handshakes are notoriously firmware-sensitive, and manufacturers have shipped fixes for exactly this.
- Power-cycle the HDMI handshake. Turn both off, unplug both from mains for 60 seconds, plug the television in first, then the bar. This clears a stale EDID negotiation and genuinely fixes a fair share of cases.
- Isolate the source. If the fault only happens with one device, the problem is that device or its own audio settings, not the ARC link.
Where the settings live, by brand
The features are the same; only the names differ. These are the paths on current televisions sold in Australia. Older models vary, and the menu wording changes between firmware versions.
| Brand | CEC is called | Where to look |
|---|---|---|
| Samsung | Anynet+ (HDMI-CEC) | Settings → General → External Device Manager. Sound output under Settings → Sound. |
| LG | SIMPLINK (HDMI-CEC) | Settings → General → Devices → External Devices. Sound Out under Settings → Sound. |
| Sony | BRAVIA Sync | Settings → Channels & Inputs → External inputs. Audio output under Settings → Display & Sound. |
| TCL | CEC / T-Link | Settings → System → Control other devices, naming varies by Google TV or Roku build. |
| Hisense | HDMI-CEC / Anyview Link | Settings → System → HDMI & CEC. Sound output under Settings → Sound. |
Menu paths change between firmware releases. If a path does not match your set, search the settings menu for “CEC” and for “sound output”.
ARC versus eARC
ARC returns audio from the television to the soundbar over the same HDMI cable, with enough bandwidth for stereo and compressed surround. eARC does the same thing with far more bandwidth, which is what uncompressed Dolby Atmos and DTS:X need. eARC requires support at both ends plus a cable rated for it; miss any of the three and the link quietly falls back or drops out.
Other common soundbar faults
Sound is delayed behind the picture
Look for an audio delay, lip sync or A/V sync setting, usually on the television first. Processing-heavy picture modes make this worse, so try switching from a smart or cinema picture mode to standard or game mode.
Volume control does nothing
CEC is off, or the television is still set to control its internal speakers. Once CEC is working the TV remote should drive the bar directly.
Bar turns itself on with the TV, or will not
Both are CEC behaviours and both are configurable, usually on the soundbar rather than the television.
The bar covers the remote sensor
A mounting problem rather than an audio one, and easier to avoid than to fix. Positioning it so the sensor stays clear.
When it genuinely is a hardware fault
If you have worked all eight steps, tried a second known-good HDMI cable, tested a different source, and the bar produces no sound on any input including Bluetooth, then the bar or the television’s ARC port has failed. At that point it is a warranty conversation rather than a settings one.
If you would rather not
We troubleshoot HDMI and soundbar faults across Greater Hobart as a call-out, including on equipment somebody else installed. It is usually a short visit. Soundbar installation and repair in Hobart, or see what it costs.
More guides
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- Soundbar wall brackets by brand - Samsung, Sonos, LG, Bose and JBL compared: what is in the box, what you have to buy, and the quirks.
- Soundbar installation cost - What soundbar installation costs in Australia, itemised, and why bundling it with a TV mount is cheaper.
Reviewed: August 2026
Useful answers before the appointment.
ARC, eARC, CEC and the faults they cause, answered plainly.
The four usual causes, in order: the cable is in a normal HDMI port rather than the ARC port, HDMI-CEC is switched off on the television, the TV audio output is set to its internal speakers, or the audio format is set to Bitstream when the bar only handles PCM.
ARC carries compressed audio and is enough for stereo and basic surround. eARC has far more bandwidth and carries uncompressed formats including Dolby Atmos and DTS:X. Both the television and the soundbar must support eARC, and the cable must be rated for it.
For eARC you want a High Speed cable with Ethernet at minimum, and an Ultra High Speed cable is the safe choice. Older or very long thin cables are a common cause of eARC dropping back to ARC or cutting out intermittently.
Usually bandwidth. The link negotiates eARC, then fails under a demanding stream and drops audio. Swap to a shorter or better-rated HDMI cable first, then check both devices are on current firmware before assuming the soundbar is faulty.
Lower the bar slightly, shift it a few centimetres off centre if the sensor sits at one end, or enable HDMI-CEC so the television responds to the soundbar remote. An infrared repeater is the last resort but it does work.
Only as a fallback. Optical works reliably but cannot carry Dolby Atmos or DTS:X, and it will not pass volume control through the TV remote without CEC. Use HDMI ARC or eARC where the ports exist.
Worked the list and still silent?
We diagnose and fix soundbar and HDMI faults across Greater Hobart, including on gear we did not install. Tell us the TV and soundbar models.
What to send us
- Screen size and model
- Your suburb
- Roughly when the house was built
- A photo of the wall
Same-week installation across Greater Hobart. Same-day where the schedule allows.